The complete guide to body exfoliation

Your skin sheds dead cells all the time. Usually this happens quietly, but sometimes the dead cells build up, especially on the back, arms, knees and heels. Skin can then look dull and feel rough. Exfoliating simply helps that process along. Done gently, it leaves skin smoother. Done too often or too hard, it does the opposite.

Physical and chemical exfoliation

There are two main ways to exfoliate. Physical exfoliation uses texture to lift dead skin: a loofah, a mitt, a brush or a grainy scrub. Chemical exfoliation uses mild acids in lotions or washes, such as lactic or glycolic acid, to loosen dead cells so they rinse away.

Both work. Physical exfoliation gives an instant smooth feel and you control the pressure. Chemical exfoliants are useful for very rough areas, but they can sting if used too often. If you use an acid lotion, you usually do not need a strong scrub on the same day.

How often to exfoliate

• Normal or oily skin: two or three times a week.
• Dry skin: once or twice a week, with a moisturiser straight after.
• Sensitive skin: once a week, gently, and only if your skin stays comfortable.

The season matters too. In the hottest months, when you sweat more, the full two or three times may feel right. In cooler months, or when the AC runs all day, once or twice may be plenty.

A loofah soap fits this rhythm well because the scrub is built into the bar. On the days in between, a sponge soap gives a soft wash without extra texture.

How to exfoliate in the shower

• Let your skin soften under warm water for a few minutes first.
• Use small circles with light pressure. The texture does the work, not force.
• Spend a little longer on rough areas like elbows, knees, heels and the back.
• Be lighter on the chest, inner arms and inner thighs, where skin is thinner.
• Rinse, pat dry and moisturise within a few minutes, while your skin is still slightly damp and the cream spreads easily.

Skip exfoliating on sunburnt, broken, freshly waxed or irritated skin. Body scrubs are also too strong for the face. And because freshly exfoliated skin can be more sensitive to sun, keep using sunscreen on any skin that is exposed.

Whatever tool you use, keep it clean and dry. Separate loofahs, mitts and brushes that stay damp can collect bacteria, so rinse them well, let them dry and replace them regularly.

Exfoliation and ingrown hairs

Ingrown hairs happen when a hair curls back or grows sideways into the skin instead of up and out, often after shaving or waxing. They show up as small, sometimes itchy bumps. Gentle exfoliation a few times a week helps clear the dead skin that can trap hairs under the surface.

• Exfoliate the day before shaving, not straight after.
• After waxing, wait a day or two before you scrub.
• Shave with a sharp blade and a good lather, in the direction of hair growth.
• Do not dig out ingrown hairs with tweezers or nails.

Signs you are overdoing it

Over-exfoliation is common, and it irritates skin. Watch for redness that lasts, stinging when you apply lotion, a tight or shiny look, or new flaking and bumps. If you notice these, stop exfoliating for a week, use only a soft wash and moisturise well. Then come back at a lower frequency.

If ingrown hairs, bumps or irritation persist or are painful, please see a dermatologist.